| Home |
Triking Alaska's
Dalton Highway
Our Latest Book in
E-Book Format
Size - 27Mgb
(requires Adobe Acrobat Reader)
January 2024
January 2024
We are back on the road!
New Years Eve was spent with good friends down on the estuary foreshore in Mandurah, and the final few days were spent catching up with some people, maintenance, and little jobs and additions/alterations that we had wanted/needed to do.
The weather is not letting up, but it is time for us to go. Time to head East to take our slow trip across to Victoria where we will board the Spirit of Tasmania and sail across Bass Straight to Tasmania for our 3 month trip around the island.
Saturday 06 January 2024
Today saw us hit the road again, making our way along the highway with the holiday makers and idiot drivers before securing ourselves a nice shady spot at the small town of Wandering for a few days so we could sit out the very hot temperatures that are forecast. We must be getting soft, but the aircon is wonderful on a 40 degree day!
Tuesday 09 January 2024
With a number of ways to get to Norseman and the Nullarbor crossing, we settled on a trip the Hyden and across the gravel road to Norseman. Stopping in Kulin, a small town that has a free RV camp, toilets and free shower, and where we have visited before, we enjoyed the camp accompanied by one other.
Wednesday 10 January 2024
Heading off on yet another hot day, we made our way to Hyden and then, without stopping for fuel or anything else, we were enjoying the bitumen before it turned to gravel, but we were pleasantly surprised at the new bitumen extension that makes its way almost to Forestania Plots, and we were enjoying the airconditioning on yet another hot day.
Arriving Forestania Plots, a soldier settlement area where returned soldiers in the past tried their luck at farming, and where we have camped before at the now abandoned area, we were well and truly on the gravel now and the road was great for a while, but, then as it got rougher we stopped to air the tyres down and make the ride smoother for us and the rig.
Lunchtime approached and we decided to stop at The Breakaways, a small area of eroded rock, and where white rock infused with red and pink can be seen underneath the orange rock above. There is a campground here and while enjoying lunch, we almost made the decision to stop there to camp, almost.
The Breakaways
Heading on we eventually arrived at Lake Johnstone, a large salt lake about 110 kilometers from Norseman. Finding a nice campsite we pulled up for the day as the wind and the rain arrived as well.
Thursday 11 January 2024
Rain, wind, lightning and thunder throughout the night left some water on the brown surface of the dry lake bed, and after packing up we continued along the Granite and Woodland Way toward Norseman. We have traveled this road a number of times and it never gets old.
Lake Johnstone near our campsite.
Arriving on the outskirts of Norseman we followed the road as it snaked its way across Lake Cowan, a large salt lake and arrived in town. We stopped at the supermarket to pick up some ice cream and tokens for the water point, aired the tyres back up to highway pressures, topped up a water tank at the water point, made our way on and topped up our fuel, picked up a swap n go gas bottle to replace our empty one and promptly made our way out of town, crossing the railway line and starting our 22nd Nullarbor Crossing, eventually pulling up for the night at the 10 mile rocks rest area not far from the Fraser Range.
Camped out the back in the bush we watched as other campers came in and left, or found themselves a spot for the night as the strong SE winds battered the area.
Friday 12 January 2024
Our bush camp was a windy, but peaceful one and the next morning we packed up and headed back out onto the highway, battling winds but enjoying another day of listening to an audio book called A Diamond in the Dust, the story of Frauke Bolten Boshammer.
The story flowed as the forever amazing bush and the kilometers passed and we eventually arrived at the Baxter Rest Area, a spot we have camped at many a time.
We made our way out the back to the gravel pit area we always camp in and took up our usual spot. Other times there we have been greeted by a family of magpies, but not this time. I guess they have moved on.
The wind continued to blast the area and we settled in for the rest of the day, surfing the net via our Starlink set up, researching the weather and watching favourite shows.
Saturday 13 January 2024
The wind was up with the sun, though it was probably up all night, but we broke camp under a cloudy sky, used the dump point and our grey water to rinse the foul looking and smelling receptacle. It was not that great when we opened the lid, but after we rinsed it out with our grey water the next user will find it reasonable.
The highway was a lot busier this morning. Plenty of trucks cars and of course caravans and motorhomes, mostly heading West and enjoying a tailwind, unlike us.
We came to the end of the 90 mile straight as we passed the roadhouse at Caiguna and entered another time zone, needing to advance our clocks 45 minutes for local time, then before long Cocklebiddy came on the horizon. The wind was giving us and our fuel economy a work out today, and the bits of roadwork along the way where we had to stop for traffic control were somewhat enjoyable.
Back in amongst the tree line (sort of), we eventually pulled into the Madura Pass Lookout and found a spot to camp for the rest of the day out the back, and just in time too! On arrival we could hardly see the Roe Plain because of the dust in the air. The wind picked up speed as it left the Southern Ocean, roared across the plain and up the escarpment, giving us a shake to let us know it was there as it passed over us.
Sunset tonight
Sunday 14 January 2024
After another pleasant night on top of Madura Pass we made our way down to the roadhouse with 5 litres of fuel left in our tank. We did have two jerry cans of fuel but wanted to keep them for later on and for just in case.
Filling our tank with 75 litres of fuel at $2.45 a litre was painful, and made more so by the wind that had been sapping our fuel economy, but hey, it is what it is. Leaving the roadhouse we went less than a kilometer before we turned off and headed 10 kilometers down a limestone and gravel track that led out onto the Roe Plain, where we found the Madura Cave.
Madura Cave
The cave only goes back as far as the scrub.
The Entrance
Inside with a small light/air shaft
As far as you can go.
A large hole in the ground with two cave bits to look at, one just a small over hang and nothing of interest, the other however low and about 30 metres deep under the ground. We walked past the three dead kangaroo carcasses guarding the entrance and made our way underground for a look. A few bats flying around where cool musty air filled our lungs, and not much else, though the ceiling matched the limestone rock above ground. As we left and had a look around to see if there was anything else to see, another couple turned up and then a family. We told them all where to go (to see the good part of the cave) and left them to their exploring.
Making our way back out to the highway we debated whether to take another track off and see if we could find the car graveyard, but in the end just made our way back to the highway and into the traffic, and the wind!
Listening to more of the audio book called A Diamond in the Dust, the story of Frauke Bolten Boshammer helped pass the time and before we knew it we were climbing back up the escarpment at Eucla and twelve kilometers later passed through the border crossing, and into South Australia.
10 kilometers later we found our turn off and, after passing through the rest area, took the winding limestone track through the bush to check out a campsite along the cliff. On arrival we found one caravan there and plenty of ocean view campsites, and a strong on shore wind.
We found a spot that we liked and backed up into the wind, set up camp and settled in. After lunch it was time to take an explore along the bluff to find a way down and out to the Delisser Sandhills.
Delisser Sand Hills
With Joanne holding the fort, I made my way out, eventually finding a way down the rocky scramble, some kilometer or so from our camp, and coming out on the sand dune. Heading South and toward the ocean and after about another kilometer coming out in the sand hills for some photography. But that was the easy bit!
The return journey was not helped by the wind which had covered up the footprints I was hoping to use as a navigation aid, but with a sand swathe down from the rocky bluff as a guide, I eventually made it back to the bottom of the bluff and then it was a rock scramble back up, not helped by taking the wrong way.
I eventually arrived at the top, lungs and heart complaining profusely about the sudden bout of exercise. Arriving back at camp bathed in sweat, despite the strong wind I was walking into it was time to cool down and then enjoy a nice shower.
Sunset showed some promise but the clouds thwarted any colour, but being able to see the sun through the clouds, and the capture it and the rays as they came down to highlight the ocean was awesome, and of course the camera got a workout.
Monday 15 January 2024
After a windy night perched on the bluff we decided to take today off and to just admire the view. The other campers that were here before us and that came after us all left this morning and we have the whole place to ourselves.
Tuesday 16 January 2024
Yesterday was a pleasant day and last night was pleasant as well, even with the rain squalls that come in from the Southern Ocean. The rain was enough to not only settle the dust, but to wash it off the rig as well, and so we left camp this morning with a cleaner rig than when we arrived.
We didn't go far however, and after a few hours decided to pull up in the gravel pit at the start of the road to Koonalda Station. We did think about going on to the old station where we have camped and explored a few times, but in the end decided to just plonk in the gravel pit.
Wednesday 17 January 2024
Parked up next to some low scrub we were half sheltered from the wind, and spent last night on our own in our gravel pit camp. A few caravans and vans went past on their way to Koonalda Station but other than them, it was very quiet night just a few hundred metres from the highway.
Leaving camp the wind was still that annoying, fuel sapping side/head wind but it is what it is, and with the traffic being quite light it was easy to stay at our preferred economic speed. We passed tracks off to the coast and the Bunda Cliffs, many of which we had taken before, and noticed that there are now signs on most of them. Signs indicating the area is the Nullarbor Protected Area and "No Public Access". We have also heard that the rangers now visit many of these tracks and fine people for just being there, and this is sad. What is the point of protecting it if nobody (except the scientists or rangers) gets to see it!?
The drive across the Nullarbor is, or was, an adventure in itself, almost a right of passage, and now, with more and more control of one's adventure creeping in, the adventure is going to very soon not be one. Back when we first came over the Nullarbor there were around 12 tracks out to lookouts, now there are only 3 officially sanctioned ones, and almost all of the others now have "No Public Access" signs attached, as do all of the others that had sprung up over the years.
The old Eyre Highway is now almost non existent these days, the only piece of this iconic road that carried trade and travelers across the country for years that is still access able is between the Nullarbor Roadhouse and Border Village, and I wonder how long it will take before this part of Australia's adventurous spirit is relegated to history and older people's memories?
Australia's adventurous spirit and frontier appeal is slowly being eroded away by rules, regulations, bitumen and bureaucratic control, all in the name of protecting it or allowing everyone to be there with little to no effort. Every child must get a gold star!
I am just glad that I am old enough to have been able to enjoy the dust, the dirt and the views, all accessed using common sense, skill and a willingness to explore.
So, rant over!
We made our way across the actual treeless plain, past the Nullarbor Roadhouse, and back into the tree line, eventually settling for the day at the Yalata Roadhouse Caravan Park. We had first stayed here when we cycled around Australia back in 2001, and the old roadhouse (which came from Maralinga) and caravan park were quite and adventure in themselves. No locks on doors on cubicles that actually had doors, kids flushing toilets continuously for entertainment, locals driving in and around all the time, everything in the roadhouse behind the counter and, and...but having eventually fallen into disrepair the roadhouse and caravan park were shut down. Eventually the old roadhouse building was removed and after a few more years an entirely new set up built.
We pulled up and Joanne went into the new roadhouse to book us in. After being greeted by a French backpacker and given the key we unlocked the gate, drove in, secured the gate again and set up camp on our allocated site. So far so good!
So the caravan park is nothing flash, but better than some we have stayed at, but the sites have blue metal to park on, all have a proper 15 amp power pole, and they are flat. There is power but no water. There is also a huge fire pit stocked very well with wood. The dump point is inside the caravan park but you need a special key to operate the tap and as such it is a tad rank! The toilets and showers (at the time of writing) look okay. One of the new, free washing machines in the disabled toilet/shower is out of order and the other one is slightly confused as to when it should finish doing what it has been told to do. And, if the door is locked and nobody is in there, a wide flat implement will unlock the door.
Thursday 18 January 2024
Leaving Yalata while everyone was still asleep, including it felt like, us as well. We made our way to Nundroo, topped up with fuel (and glad we did because it was 8c a litre cheaper than Penong despite what the Fuel Spy app said). Then it was onto Penong where we turned off and made our way out to Point Sinclair for a look.
THe hard packed limestone gravel road was pretty good, but of course there were the usual bad spots just when you didn't expect them! Arriving at Lake Macdonnell we enjoyed the view of the pink water and large sand dunes on one side and the brackish water on the other. We decided to stop there on the way back and to get some photos of it then.
Arriving at the top of the cliff after passing the campground ($17.50 pp) we descended the narrow, steep roadway down to the boat ramp and where a number of old caravans were parked as fisherman's shacks at the base of the cliff. What a great spot!
Turning around and heading back up the cliff road we stopped in for a look at the beach near the campground (after some reversing practice to get into a spot). After walking the short boardwalk we were greeted with a beautiful view of the coastline.
The coast at Point Sinclair
Stopping at the pink lake on the way back we pulled up on the causeway, (like most others do) and launched the drone. Well, suffice to say it was an interesting flight with the wind and despite only going about 100m away, at the legal limit of 120m high, the drone was losing the battle, but did manage to capture a few abstract like shots.
Sweet n Sour
Landing the drone we moved along to the inland end of the causeway and stopped for photo's, but the best colour was definitely at the other end (because of the sun angle).
We made our way back to Penong and stopped for lunch at the windmill park before making the journey to the bush area at the Charoba Tank. We had camped here before when cycling and so, after finding a nice spot we settled in for the rest of the day, only to find out later that we had run out of water!
Friday 19 January 2024
We were booked into West Coast Auto's for an oil and oil filter change at 10am, so after a pleasantly quiet night we awoke to a heavyish dew. We packed up and headed onto Ceduna, where after going through the quarantine point, we filled up on water, then food, then fuel and then enjoyed breakfast at the parking area along the waterfront.
Arriving at West Coast Auto's just before 10 we were greeted by the security dog, a little fluffy ankle biter, but it was just the front man for the beautiful silky black greyhound inside, who was quite content to enjoy a rub and a scratch from anyone.
Rub and scratch over, we unhooked the van in their yard and delivered the ute to the rear of the shed for them do do their work. We had turned over 180,000 km's and so needed a basic service to keep things ship shape. And it was a good thing we did stop because they also found that two clips that hold the fuel hose on from the tank were weeping and will need replacing, but not there. So, after paying the bill and being assured the fuel hose clips will get us to Adelaide, we made our way out of town to the bush corner between the highway to Port Augusta and the coast road down to Port Lincoln.
Phoning ahead to Mazda in Port Augusta we managed to arrange the necessary parts to be organised and for them to be fitted next week. In the meantime we will continue a little touring.
Saturday 20 January 2024
Waking to another warm but windy day, and with a rooftop tent camper nearby, we packed up and made our way South towards Streaky Bay. We didn't have to far to go though as we were going to check out a camp at Point Brown.
Taking the turn off down the limestone road we were taking it pretty easy. Despite the relative conditions, parts of the road were, well, jarring! Keeping a slow pace and not really caring about when we got there, we eventually arrived at the end of the road some 22 kilometers later.
There are a number of tracks off to various parts of the coastline but we settled for a corner up at the overview/lookout and settled in. Leveled up and out of the way of others who may want to visit or stay, we had a beautiful view out the back window and both spent many moments just looking out and enjoying not only the view, but the pods of dolphins that were playing and jumping in the bay.
The view out of our window. It's times like this we really enjoy the U shaped lounge and panoramic window.
The only downside was the wind, quite strong and continuous, but, a small price to pay for this camp. The camera got a work out and so did the drone.
Just loved the patterns and the way the light caught the water.
The waves stirring the sand up made for an interesting view.
Sunday 21 January 2024
Waking to yet another nice day, we made the only possible choice, and decided to stay for another day.
Monday 22 January 2024
After another windy night at Point Brown, it was hard to leave, but we did. The trip out was a little better and when we got to the end we aired the tyres back up and made our way to Streaky Bay to use the dump point, then to enjoy morning tea overlooking the jetty, and then to rinse the rig off at the car wash. While we were waiting for a car and caravan to move on a bloke in a ute pushed in in front. Well, there was only one thing to do, and that was to walk over and tell him the line up started behind us! He moved.
Streak Bay was fairly busy and plenty of caravans and holiday makers still around, so we were glad to leave the hustle and bustle behind.
Stopping for a look and a few photo at Murphy's Haystacks, large Inselbergs up on a hill that resembled haystacks to an irishman passing by in a carriage, we moved on and after checking out a campsite not far out of Port Kenny, we took a drive around Port Kenny looking for somewhere to enjoy lunch and the view for a few hours. We found a spot, but, the smell drove us away, and back to our campsite.
With only a rooftop tent in down the back, we found ourselves a nice spot where we could see some of the ocean, and where there was a beautiful breeze coming into the van. Settled in it was time to catch up on a few things and to enjoy today's camp.
Tuesday 23 January 2024
Our camp was a beauty, but we were up early and on the road heading over to Venus Bay, a place we spent Christmas once when we were cycling around Australia.
We arrived in Venus Bay as the place was just waking up. People launching their tinnies to go fishing, walkers pounding the pavement and various other early risers out and about. We parked at a small area near the town jetty and enjoyed breakfast as the Belt of Venus lit the sky, the water was like a mirror and dolphins cruised past or jumped ahead of the boats as they were heading out.
The Belt of Venus over Venus Bay
(an intentional camera movement image)
Breakfast over we took a drive around the town that we remember being farmers holiday or fisherman's shacks, but that is no longer. It still only has a caravan park and a general store, but the dwellings have improved out of sight and we even fancied one that was for sale.
Heading back out of town we made our way to Colton where we picked up a loaf of freshly cooked, wood fired bread, and then another limestone road to cut off some distance as we made our way to Lock where we fueled up, took some photos and continued on to Cleve.
Pulling up in their RV Park, we found a nice spot and for $10 a night had power, water, hot showers and a toilet. Bargain! But this is where, on a 40 degree stinker of a day, our air conditioner died. The lights were on, but the hamster that powers the cold air had expired. Thankfully the wind changed direction and cooled the place down and we slept ok.
Wednesday 24 January 2024
It was so tempting to stay in Cleve, but we had an appointment in Port Augusta tomorrow to get the fuel hose leak fixed on the ute, so we moved on, originally aiming for either Whyalla or Point Lowly, but as things turned out, we stopped in Whyalla to use the dump point, top up our water, enjoy a visit to the marina to watch the dolphins play, and to make some phone calls to try and get our air conditioner looked at, all to no avail.
Leaving Whyalla we enjoyed the airconditioning in the ute and after deciding not to go to Point Lowly, eventually arrived at the RV Park in Port Augusta.
We had taken a trip around to a business that we thought could help us, and that we had been recommended to, but they have not been answering their phone, and, when we got there, the gates were locked, vehicles parked up inside and the place empty.
We expected the park to be full, but no, there were only two other horse float goose neck conversions there. We settled in and eventually ended up chatting and enjoying a few drinks with the two kiwi's that had the rigs. Our eldest daughter and husband turned up on their way to Melbourne and so we enjoyed a chat with them and then, rather than use our own water and shower, went back to their motel room and used theirs.
Thursday 25 January 2024
After a peaceful night in the RV park, we took the ute to get fixed and by 10.30am were back at camp. We did think of moving on, but with exceptionally strong winds forecast, decided to stay another night instead.
Friday 26 January 2024
Australia Day and another day on the road, thankful to be living in the best country in the world.
Leaving Port Augusta we made our way up Horrocks Pass and down into and through Wilmington, but not before we topped up our water tanks at the small rest area on the Eastern end of town.
Joanne had picked out a possible camp at a place called Appila Spring, so we made our way there along nice quiet country roads.
Arriving at the turn off we passed through a wall line entrance and made our way along the short track. There are two areas at the spring, so we went down the steep hill to where the water, if it was flowing, would have been. But there's not much room down there so we went back up the top and found a nice spot near what must be the cleanest and most appealing long drop toilet, complete with toilet paper, tank water, soap and paper towel!
It was so pleasant here we decided to spend two nights. The deep creek running through the gorge and the surrounding hills had some beautiful big tree's and the sunset that night was just stunning!
The sunset and clouds were just stunning.
One other camper came in but they went down the bottom and camped on the track, blocking half of it.
Saturday 27 January 2024
Waking before sunset, we were hoping, after last nights sunset, for a cracker of a sunrise, and Mother Nature provided.
Blood red, the sunrise was spectacular, and this was the view out of our back window!
The colour's softened as the sun got closer to cracking the horizon, but it was still beautiful.
Looking the other way at sunrise, this was out of our front door.
Such a beautiful spot, full of bird life, peace and quiet. One camper left and another came in later on, camping not too far from us.
Sunday 28 January 2024
As much as we wanted to stay another day, it was time to move on This time we were heading for Farrell Flat, a small town with a donation camp. Not much to say about the drive except it was quiet and the scenery was pleasant.
We arrived at Farrell Flat and took a drive around town to view the silo art and see what town had to offer. Arriving at the pub we found two Ambulance and two Police cars there. Something had happened in the back garden come camping area but we were not sure what.
Finding the camp just a block or two away we came through the gate, past the toilet block and dump point and settled on a gravel spot just as someone else was leaving. There are five or six spots (depending on how people park) each with a water tap and hose at the back of them. We leveled off, connected our hose to the tap to save using our own and, and settled in.
Shade fell across us all around 4pm, and there was a nice breeze blowing through the windows and by nightfall there were five of us spending the night.
Monday 29 January 2024
With such a nice camp it was tempting to stay another day, but do didn't. We packed up and after a chat with the family next to us, we headed off. First stop was at the small, but stunning town of Mintaro. Most of the town is heritage listed with homes and businesses made of stone, and it is just a delight for the eyes to see.
Not far out of Mintaro, we stopped at Martindale Hall, a large, historic house and coach house of yester year. Joanne took the $18 tour and by all accounts it was worth a look. On our way out of the grounds we also stopped for a look around the outside of the coach house, which was also an impressive structure.
Martindale Hall
Moving on we made our way to Greenock where we checked out the $5 camp at the oval. Well, if you like camping on the side of a hill high up on chocks and underneath pine trees, then let me tell you this is the place for you. So we went back into town, found a car park and had lunch.
Lunch over and some kilometers later, we came into a small town called Palmer where they have a donation camp around the oval and in between olive tree's. The campsites are small and we had to drive into the site, in between the olives trees and then reverse back onto the site. There were other spots where bigger rigs could get into, but as usual they were already taken.
Tuesday 30 January 2024
Waking to a dew and low cloud morning we had a short drive to do, so took our time to let people that might have been in our campsite leave.
We made the very short trip to Mannum, arriving in town, crossing the river on the ferry where the driver said "you picked a nice day for a cruise". We sure did! The Murray River was glistening in the morning sun and traffic was light.
Passing the riverside houses that would have had wet feet in the recent flood, we pulled into the campsite and after a drive around, selected a site that would give us some sun for the batteries. One of the other campers nearby came and told us we had selected the best spot, and if we hadn't taken it they would have moved into it.
Camp set up, ticket machine fed for a two day visit ($10 a day) we settled in and did indeed enjoy the best sun in the place, even as the large river gum next to us dropped the odd leaf and small twig on our roof.
Wednesday 31 January 2024
Our campsite at Mannum was very quiet, though the droppings on the roof overnight were consistent. A look at what needed to be cleared the next morning revealed a possum had also been bombing us.
Joanne took off early to ride the ferry into town to get in at the laundromat before anyone else did and came back with not only clean washing, but doughnuts and a drink. Guess she found the bakery while the washing was cooking.
We enjoyed another day by the river, listening to the paddle steamers go up and down, the odd jet ski and the lapping of the water along the shore. Our view of the river was blocked by some willows, but it was still a nice spot to be.
...
Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.
|©Andrew & Joanne Hooker | Default Screen Size 1024x768||Last Updated |